My favorite city in Europe — and once you’ve been, you’ll understand why.
There are cities you enjoy, and then there are cities that you want to go back to over and over again. Lisbon is one of them for both me and my husband. The food alone would be reason enough to return – but layer on top of that the warmth of the people, the gorgeous weather, the deep and complex history, the jaw-dropping architecture, and a Portuguese horse culture that struck a chord in me, and you have a city that is simply hard to leave. Oh, and the Portuguese are effortlessly, impossibly stylish. Just something to know before you go.
Know Before You Go
Before you arrive in Lisbon, there are a few things to keep in mind.
- This city has beautiful old cobblestone streets that are very narrow. I do NOT recommend having a rental car in this city, as it is very difficult to park and not a pleasant driving experience. We didn’t get a rental car until we were leaving Lisbon, and I’m so relieved we did it that way. Lisbon drivers are wild!
- Lisbon has public transportation that’s easy to use. While I’ve seen better public transportation in other European cities, my husband and I leveraged the buses and trains to get around the city and it worked just fine. We didn’t use the trolleys because they were so popular that they often had lines, but that is a cute experience if you have the time. There was an incredibly sad, fatal accident with a tram not long after we visited, but that is not the norm – we found public transportation in Lisbon to be quite safe.
- If you need to Uber, they are far less expensive in Lisbon than in other European cities. My husband and I were truly shocked at the prices in comparison. We typically try to walk everywhere or use public transportation, but there were a few instances where we needed to Uber and it worked out great too.
- The Portuguese are STYLISH, especially in Lisbon! My husband and I had planned to wear more athletic-type clothing (Vuori, Lululemon, Athleta – stuff that photographs well but is pretty comfortable), but found that we often felt underdressed. We upped our wardrobe game for the rest of the trip. It was just funny because usually I pack too many “cute” or “fancy” outfits that I don’t end up wearing on the trip, but in this case, it was quite the opposite. All that being said, WEAR COMFORTABLE SHOES! Lisbon is very hilly and has lots of slick cobblestone, so it’s very important to wear comfortable shoes.
- Get the Lisboa Card! We used the Lisboa Card for access to faster queues in some of the most popular sites in Lisbon, and it was totally worth it. I strongly suggest it if you have a long list of Lisbon destinations and want to save time in line.
Things to Do
Praça do Comércio
One of the grandest squares in all of Europe, Praça do Comércio sits right on the Tagus River with sweeping waterfront views and a triumphal arch that commands attention. Our hotel was essentially on the square, which meant we walked around it constantly, and it never got old. The scale of it is something photographs don’t fully capture.
While we were there, there was some sort of soccer event going on and it was blocked off for a day or two, but the event looked like a blast. The Portuguese love soccer (in fact, our hotel was named after a soccer player – more on that later).
Padrão dos Descobrimentos
The Monument to the Discoveries stands on the riverbank and is one of Lisbon’s most iconic landmarks, built to honor the Portuguese explorers of the Age of Discovery. It’s striking from every angle, and the surrounding waterfront makes for a beautiful walk. It’s even larger than I thought it would be, and you can climb up to the top (we did) and the views are absolutely spectacular.
Torre de Belém
No visit to Lisbon is complete without seeing the Torre de Belém — a 16th-century fortified tower rising from the edge of the Tagus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most photographed buildings in Portugal. Go early if you can, as it gets very busy.
It was under renovations when we were there, so we didn’t get to go inside, but my parents got to go decades ago and said it was fascinating. If renovations are complete when you visit, take the time to go inside it – I plan to on a return trip.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Jerónimos Monastery is one of the finest examples of Manueline architecture in the world. The detail work on the stone is almost incomprehensible – it looks carved by someone with infinite time and an obsessive imagination. It is one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen and it has a stunning garden, impressive tombs and striking carvings that truly wowed me.
A note about visiting Jerónimos Monastery: It is VERY busy. It has to be among the most popular destinations in Lisbon, so I recommend going on a weekday and earlier in the morning, when it opens. That’s how my husband and I did it, and it really payed off, as we didn’t have much of a line to get in. By the time we finished touring it though and exited, there was a huge line (and it was quite hot outside, so I’m sure the heat was rough for those waiting).
Museu de Marinha
Right inside the Jerónimos complex, the Museu de Marinha tells the story of Portugal’s extraordinary maritime history, which is a story that truly shaped the entire world. For a country of its size, Portugal’s seafaring legacy is staggering, and this museum does it real justice. The Portugueses are very proud of their maritime heritage and exploration, so this museum is not one to miss. It really has an incredible collection to see.
Museu Nacional dos Coches
This was among my favorites, and I knew it would be because my parents had gone decades before and loved it. The National Coach Museum is one of the finest museums of its kind in the world, housing an extraordinary collection of royal carriages from the 17th through 19th centuries. Even if you think carriages aren’t your thing, the craftsmanship and sheer opulence on display will stop you in your tracks.
Portuguese School of Equestrian Art
For anyone who loves horses, this is not optional – it is essential. The Portuguese School of Equestrian Art is one of the great classical riding academies in the world, and watching the Lusitano horses perform is amazing. The precision, the partnership between horse and rider, the elegance of the tradition is equestrian culture at its finest.
When you go, you’re able to watch the riders work with their horses on the lunge and groom them. You are not allowed to touch the horses, which took every ounce of my self control, so I just admired from afar. We also attended a demonstration where riders rode in groups to show advanced classical dressage movements. It was magical, truly.
These horses are a unique bloodline within the Lusitano breed, derived from the Alter Stud Farm. They only come in bay, and their lineage dates back to King João V in 1726. They have a more “old-school” baroque look about them conformationally compared to the more modern Lusitano bloodlines. Their movement reminds me more of the Andalusian in a way – it’s quite expressive and floaty. I
was fortunate enough to ride 3 Lusitano horses later in the trip (more on that in another article), and absolutely fell in love with them. Their intelligence, disposition and elegance are a winning combination.
Palácio Nacional da Ajuda
This grand 19th-century royal palace sits on a hill overlooking the city and river and is filled with extraordinary royal collections, furniture, and decorative arts. We ran out of time to visit this Ajuda National Palace, but it’s on my list for our return. Portugal is a country of palaces and castles, with so much rich history, it’s tough to squeeze it all in on one trip! Which is why we plan to return 😉
Museo Tesouro Real
The Museo Tesouro Real, or Royal Treasury Museum, was a last-minute discovery that I’m so glad we found. I had briefly read about it when planning the trip but had put it on my “if we have time” list. While we were exploring, we sort of stumbled upon the museum building and decided to go in. It ended up being a highlight in Lisbon for us! The jewels are astounding, and the collection is larger than I expected. If you want to see some royal jewels and discover the history surrounding them, this is a must-add to your Lisbon trip.
Castelo de São Jorge
Perched on the highest hill in the city, this medieval Moorish castle offers some of the best panoramic views in all of Lisbon. The Castelo de São Jorge is big and imposing — it’s easy to imagine what it was like to be in the fortress centuries ago. It is among the busier sites in the city, so plan on crowds.
While it was busy when we were there, we had the Lisboa Card, which if I recall, got us in a short queue to get in. Take your time exploring the castle and enjoy the peacocks – they had baby peacocks with them when we were there and they were so cute!
Important Note: The walk up to the castle is steep and it’s quite the workout. Definitely wear comfortable shoes and clothes you don’t mind getting sweaty in. I found it to be a considerable hike up on the cobblestone.
Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa)
The Lisbon Cathedral is the oldest church in the city, built in the 12th century, and it wears its centuries well. The Romanesque exterior is austere and beautiful, and the interior is breathtakingly beautiful.
The cathedral was severely damaged during an earthquake in 1755 that devastated Portugal, especially Lisbon. It was followed by a tsunami and a fire, destroying many of the buildings throughout the country, and the cathedral was nearly destroyed.
Renovations continued to be made to the cathedral through the 1990s, when archeological excavations discovered even older Moorish and Roman ruins. If you like history, definitely don’t miss the Sé de Lisboa.
A note about Lisbon Cathedrals: We went to a couple different cathedrals and they were absolutely gorgeous. While photographs of the exterior of the cathedrals is allowed, photographing the interior isn’t always, so be mindful of signage and be respectful of cathedral rules.
LX Factory
My husband and I spent an afternoon exploring LX Factory, and I recommend adding it to your list. It’s a converted 19th-century industrial complex that is now home to independent shops, restaurants, art spaces, and a beloved Sunday market.
LX Factory has real creative energy and is a perfect afternoon detour – get a cocktail and do a little shopping while you’re here.
If you like art, you’ll appreciate the Bordalo II installations – a 3D bumblebee on the side of one of the buildings is among many around Lisbon. We also saw some other pieces, like a 3D fox by the same artist. It’s entirely unique and memorable.
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
Arguably Portugal’s most important art museum, housing an exceptional collection of Portuguese and European painting, sculpture, and decorative arts, the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga is a place of significance. My husband and I did not get a chance to visit this museum, but it’s on my list for next time. If you’re an art history buff, this should be at the top of your list.
National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo)
The azulejo — the painted ceramic tile — is one of the most distinctive artistic traditions in Portuguese culture, and this museum is its definitive home. The collection spans five centuries and includes an extraordinary 18th-century panoramic tile panel of pre-earthquake Lisbon.
This was among our favorite museums we visited, as we’d never seen anything like it before. Some of the tiles were beautiful and others humorous; I recommend adding the Museu Nacional do Azulejo to your itinerary for sure.
Rossio Square or Praça de D. Pedro IV
One of Lisbon’s main public squares, Praça de D. Pedro IV, also known as Praça do Rossio , was one of my favorite squares we came across as we explored the city. It’s in the Baixa neighborhood, which hosts a plethora of great restaurants. The wave-patterned cobblestones, the ornate fountains, and the steady hum of activity make it a great place to simply sit, have a coffee or glass of wine, and watch the city move.
Parque Florestal de Monsanto
This is Lisbon’s great urban forest, and I was sorry to have missed it, as it had been on our list, but we ran out of time. The Parque Florestal de Monsanto stretches across a hill on the western edge of the city and is an excellent spot for birding and quiet walks away from the tourist areas. Pack binoculars and comfortable walking shoes.
Botanical Gardens
Lisbon is a green city filled with beautiful botanical gardens with stunning plants and so, so many peacocks. We went to several of the green spaces – I lost track, we went to so many – but they were each entirely unique and absolutely lovely. That being said, I’m partial to a good botanical garden, and if a city I’m visiting has one, I try to go.
Some of the botanical gardens we like most:
- Jardim Botânico da Ajuda: The first botanical garden ever created in Lisbon and Portugal in 1768. It was commissioned by the Marquis of Pombal and designed by the Italian botanist Domingos Vandelli. The gardens were installed on the Palácio da Ajuda grounds and had over 5, 000 species of plants from Portugal and its overseas territories. There were expeditions to Angola, Brazil and Cape Verde specifically to collect seeds and plants to add to the garden.
- The Botanical Garden of Lisbon: This was the most impressive botanical garden we visited in Lisbon. It was beautiful and filled with a variety of birds, both native and non-native species. We enjoyed watching the ducks, parakeets, peacocks and other species living in the beautiful flora.
Lisbon Oceanarium
One of the finest aquariums in Europe, the Lisbon Oceanarium sits on the waterfront in the Parque das Nações and is genuinely impressive for visitors of all ages.
The central ocean tank, surrounded on all sides by marine life, is a spectacular piece of design.
As someone who loves a good aquarium, this one ranks high on my list.
We spent at least 3 hours here – it’s a larger aquarium with lots to see. It’s among the best aquariums I’ve ever visited and if you like aquariums too, don’t miss this one!
Where to Eat
Clube de Jornalistas
Clube de Jornalistas was far and away our favorite restaurant of the entire Portugal trip – and given how well we ate throughout the country, that is saying something. The food was genuinely creative and delicious, the service was excellent, and the wine pairings were exactly right. We’ve already talked about going to it again on our next Lisbon trip – we talk about this restaurant constantly!
Pastéis de Belém
No visit to Lisbon — and certainly no visit to the Belém neighborhood — is complete without a stop at Pastéis de Belém. This is the original home of the pastel de nata, the iconic Portuguese custard tart that has been imitated endlessly around the world and perfected exactly once, here, since 1837. The recipe remains a closely guarded secret, and as our first food stop in Lisbon, it made an impression.
The tarts come warm, dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar, with a perfectly blistered custard top and a crisp, flaky shell. There is simply nothing else like them. Given that you will almost certainly be visiting the Torre de Belém, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos all in the same stretch of the city, building a stop here into that day is not only easy — it is a must. Be prepared for a line. It moves though, my husband and I didn’t wait long for our treats! Plus, it’s worth every minute of the wait.
Tapisco
One of the best meals we had in Portugal was another Lisbon spot – Tapisco. This was where we had our first dinner in the city and we tried quite a number of appetizers and mains. It’s in the Príncipe Real neighborhood, which has a number of restaurants to try out. The cocktails were just as exceptional as the meal at Tapisco, so be sure to try out their craft cocktails.
If you’d like to have dinner at Tapisco, be sure to make a reservation in advance. It’s a popular spot and seats fill up quickly!
O Frade
This was our second favorite meal in Lisbon – it was absolutely fabulous. After our morning at the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art, we had lunch at O Frade, and it was a fabulous way to spend the afternoon. We sat at the bar, and we were able to see some of the magic happen while the chefs made some of the meals.
Our meals were phenomenal. We had several dishes: a rice dish with rabbit, fish with leeks, and a dessert that was based on a traditional Portuguese dessert that had egg and marshmallow – it was unlike anything I’d ever had and it was fabulous. A wonderful lunch or dinner spot and one I’d return to without hesitation – I strongly recommend.
Prado
Prado was high on our shortlist for this trip, and while we didn’t get a chance to try it, it remains firmly on the list for next time. The kitchen has built a strong reputation for seasonal, thoughtful cooking rooted in quality Portuguese ingredients. It’s among the best known restaurants in the city and sounds worth the hype.
Time Out Market
We didn’t make it to the Time Out Market Lisboa on this trip, but we’ve had friends go and recommend it. Widely regarded as one of the best food markets in Europe, it brings together some of Lisbon’s top chefs and food vendors under one roof — a great option for lunch when you want variety and quality in the same place. It tends to get busy, so arriving a little earlier or later than the peak lunch rush is worth keeping in mind.
Bairro do Avillez
We ate at Bairro do Avillez during our stay, and the venue is genuinely gorgeous — a beautifully designed space that feels like a destination in itself. The food was great, though I’ll be honest that I found it a touch overpriced. That said, if atmosphere and setting are part of what you’re paying for in a meal, this one delivers on that front, and the food was fresh and tasty.
That’s the thing about Lisbon – there are so many incredible food options that even restaurants that are incredibly good in their own right, are competing against a long list of other outstanding restaurants – the bar is set high in Lisbon!
Bonjardim
Bonjardim is known for its Piri Piri chicken, and it was one of our lunches in Lisbon. It was very yummy — the chicken was flavorful and juicy, and the piri piri sauce was excellent.
There are many other things on the menu to choose from, but we wanted the classic chicken and it did not disappoint. The fresh bread was also crispy and tasty (I think it costs extra, but we didn’t mind, as it’s great bread).
This restaurant has earned a loyal following for good reason.
One important note: the line is long and it moves at its own pace, so get there early and plan accordingly. It is absolutely worth the wait.
The Bifanas of Afonso
Okay, so we wanted to eat here so badly but every time we needed lunch, we were sort of far away in the city. If you want to try one of Portugal’s most iconic street foods done properly, The Bifanas of Afonso is the place to go. The bifana — a simple, deeply satisfying pork sandwich — is one of those foods that seems humble on paper and then completely wins you over in person. This spot is well regarded and popular for good reason.
Keep in mind, that I’ve heard the lines here can get long, but they move quickly.
Neighbourhood Lisboa
We ended up eating at Neighbourhood Lisboa twice during our stay — once for breakfast and once for dinner — which tells you everything you need to know. For breakfast, I had a fabulous chia seed bowl and my husband had a great breakfast burrito. When we came back for dinner, we went with the smash burgers, which were exactly what we needed after a long day on our feet. Easy, tasty, and reasonably priced — a reliable spot to have in your back pocket when you want something unpretentious and satisfying.
Omakase Ri
If you find yourself craving a break from Portuguese food mid-trip, Omakase Ri is a compelling option. Sometimes you simply want something completely different, and a well-executed omakase is hard to argue with anywhere in the world. We didn’t eat here, but I had my eye on it during my research and want to check it out for next time.
The Folks
If you’re looking for another great breakfast spot, we really enjoyed The Folks. I had delicious Turkish eggs and a pistachio latte. My husband also had a large breakfast platter with eggs and other yummies. The portions here are big, so if you’ve built up an appetite, this is a good place to come.
Drinks & Wine Bars
Lisbon by the Glass
Our first stop in Portugal for a drink was Lisbon by the Glass, and it set the tone for the entire trip beautifully. Perched up on the hill with a wonderful view over the city, we found it very easy to relax here. We had a really lovely glass of wine here before dinner on our first evening in Portugal, and I’d recommend it to anyone looking for a scenic, unhurried way to ease into Lisbon.
Insaciável
On our second day, we found ourselves at Insaciável for a glass of wine, and it was another great discovery. A relaxed, characterful wine bar that fits naturally into the rhythm of a Lisbon afternoon. I had a glass of Orange wine, which I’d only had once before, and we had some delicious olives and charcuterie as a snack.
Parra Wine Bistro
Parra was on our radar throughout the trip but we simply ran out of time to get there. It looked like a genuinely excellent wine bar and is firmly on the list for next time. Take a look at its drink offerings and
Corkies Speakeasy
We didn’t make it to Corkies on this trip, but it came highly recommended by a friend who visited Lisbon and knows their cocktails. It has built a strong reputation for creative, well-crafted drinks in a speakeasy setting — exactly the kind of place worth seeking out if you want something a little more inventive than a glass of wine at the end of the night.
Senhor Uva
There was another wine bar we quite liked, called Senhor Uva, but last I heard, it was sadly closing. They had a great spot near a park in Lisbon and had a great selection of wine. The service was great too — very knowledgeable and friendly. I was sorry to see it close!
Fado: A Cultural Essential
No trip to Lisbon is truly complete without experiencing Fado, the hauntingly beautiful musical tradition that is as central to Portuguese identity as the azulejo tile or the Tagus River itself. Fado is mournful, melodic, and deeply moving – a genre built on longing, fate, and the particular Portuguese concept of saudade, an untranslatable word that captures a bittersweet yearning for something lost or out of reach. We ran out of time to see Fado on this trip, but it is at the very top of our list for next time.
Two excellent options for experiencing Fado over dinner are Tasca do Chico, a beloved and intimate spot with a loyal local following, and O Faia, one of Lisbon’s most celebrated traditional Fado houses with decades of history behind it. Book well in advance for both – these tables go fast, and for good reason.
Museo do Fado: If you’re a music aficionado and want to learn more about this soulful, unique and culturally significant genre of music, check out the Museo do Fado to learn more!
Neighborhoods in Lisbon
These aren’t all the neighborhoods of Lisbon, but a highlight of a few that should absolutely be on your list to explore:
Bairro Alto
The upper neighborhood of Bairro Alto comes alive in the evening, filled with small restaurants, wine bars, and Fado houses. It’s where Lisbon loosens its collar. A great place to end a long day of exploring.
Alfama
Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, Alfama is a labyrinth of narrow streets, tiled facades, and the sound of Fado drifting from open doors. It is the soul of the city, dating back to the 8th century. Wander without a plan. Get lost. Find a tiny restaurant and sit down.
Baixa
The Baixa is the historic center and where you’ll find the city’s best-known destinations. Visit to see the museums and major tourist sites.
Belém
This is the area you come to for the iconic monuments of Lisbon.This is where you’ll find the Monastery of Jerónimos and Torre de Belém.
Alcântara
The Alcântara neighborhood along the river is well worth planning a dinner around. It has developed a quietly excellent restaurant scene that feels a little more local and a little less tourist-facing than some of the more central areas — it has an industrial, trendy vibe with great street art.
Where to Stay
Pestana CR7 Lisboa
We stayed at the Pestana CR7 Lisboa, booked through Pousadas de Portugal, and the location alone makes it a great option — the hotel sits essentially on the Praça do Comércio, meaning you step outside and you are immediately in the heart of historic Lisbon with the Tagus River right in front of you. The proximity to Belém, Alfama, and the waterfront sights makes this a genuinely ideal base for exploring the city.
This hotel was also very reasonably priced, which was one of the reasons I chose it. It was newly renovated, so the rooms were clean and modern. The only drawbacks are that I found the rooms to be quite dark, and when you opt for the convenience of the location, it also means it’s quite busy. If you like a darker ambience in your room and you don’t mind a very busy area, this is an excellent option.
We also got a complimentary glass of wine from the hotel, which we enjoyed in the nice hotel bar.
Casa das Janelas com Vista
Casa das Janelas com Vista — “House of Windows with a View” — is a charming boutique guesthouse that lives up to its name. A lovely option if you want something with more intimate character and personality than a larger hotel.
O Independente Príncipe Real
If you want to stay in Bairo Alto district of Lisbon, O Independente Príncipe Real is a great option. It’s also a bit less expensive than some other hotels I’d researched for my trip.
Pestana Palace Lisboa
If you’re looking to truly splurge, Pestana Palace is a magnificent 5-star hotel option — a restored 19th-century palace set in its own gardens. This is old-world grandeur done right. It’s part of the Pestana Hotel Group, which I’ve booked with a couple times before and had great experiences.
Santiago de Alfama
For a boutique luxury experience in the heart of one of Lisbon’s most atmospheric neighborhoods, Santiago de Alfama is a beautiful choice. Staying in Alfama means you’re already inside the soul of the city before you even step out the door.
Torel Palace Lisboa
Torel Palace Lisboa is another excellent boutique luxury option — and I can speak to the quality of the Torel brand from personal experience, having stayed at their Porto property and coming away very impressed. They do boutique hospitality well, with strong attention to detail and a real sense of place. If you have the budget, this is a brand worth trusting.
This article is part of my Portugal Series 🇵🇹