Bergen, Norway
A city of rain-washed cobblestones, UNESCO-listed harborfronts, and fjords stretching to the edge of imagination.
Bergen defies easy description. It is simultaneously one of Norway’s most historic cities and one of its most forward-thinking. Its streets are spotlessly clean, its air is free of exhaust fumes — nearly every car on the road is an EV or hybrid, meaning the city hums with a near-miraculous quiet. Walk along the harbor and you’ll find yourself in a place that feels like it has been gently perfected over centuries.
The city sits cradled by seven mountains and opens directly onto the fjords. On a clear morning, the harbor shimmers and cruise can be easily admired at the docks. On a grey afternoon — and there will be many grey afternoons, Bergen is famously one of the rainiest cities in Europe — the wooden facades of Bryggen glow with a warmth that only centuries of stories can produce.
Practical Information
Getting There: We flew Icelandair from Dulles (IAD) to Reykjavik/Keflavic (KEF) to Bergen (BGO). I know others who have flown Scandinavian Airlines, but to Oslo and had good experiences as well. Bergen Airport was easy to navigate and very clean.
Getting Around: Norway has excellent public transportation, and Bergen is no exception. We took the light rail often, as it’s fast, convenient and inexpensive. We took it directly from the airport into city center, and then used it throughout our trip to get around. While they don’t always check to see that you’ve purchased a train ticket in order to board, PLEASE always buy one – you are a guest in this country!
We didn’t need to rent a car until we started doing activities further from city center. We had a positive experience renting a car from Europcar, but it was VERY expensive. It’s also very expensive to buy fuel for your rental car. We opted for a hybrid since we weren’t sure what EV charging infrastructure the country had in the more rural places we were going. In retrospect, I think we would have been fine with an electric car, as there were plenty of charging stations.
Budget: Norway is expensive. Plan generously — meals, taxis, fuel and activities all cost significantly more than Western European norms. Budget approximately 400–700 NOK per person for a main course and drink at a mid-range restaurant.
Weather: Bergen is one of Europe’s rainiest cities. Pack a good waterproof layer year-round. In June, expect long, light-filled days, but with frequent showers. I wore a hat, long pants and a waterproof rain jacket most days. Typically, days were in the mid 50s Fahrenheit.
Environment: Bergen is spotlessly clean. There is very little road noise or air pollution. The harbor and city center are immaculately maintained. The only thing I noticed here – much like the rest of Europe – you can expect lots of cigarette smoke in the outdoor dining areas. My husband and I aren’t fans of that, so we ate inside typically.
Things to Do
Bryggen — The Hanseatic Wharf ⭐ UNESCO World Heritage Site
Bryggen is Bergen’s soul and an incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site. A row of tightly-packed medieval wooden buildings lining the eastern side of the harbor, it was the hub of Hanseatic trade as far back as the 12th century. Today, the narrow alleys between the buildings open into a world of galleries and shops that seem entirely removed from the modern city just steps away. Walking Bryggen at dusk, when the wooden facades blush in the evening light and the harbor reflects the last of the sun, is an experience that will stay with you long after you leave Norway. From the harbor, watch massive cruise ships glide silently into port — a remarkable sight against the historic backdrop.
Fjord Boat Tour
No visit to Bergen is complete without time on the fjords. Take a 3-hour tour for a powerful introduction, or commit to a full-day journey deeper into the landscape. The scale of the fjord walls, the color of the water, and the silence when the engine cuts are genuinely awe-inspiring. Book in advance, especially in summer.
We did the Mostraumen Fjord Cruise, which I booked on Viator and had a great experience. It was reasonably priced and our boat had an indoor area for when it started pouring rain (though we stayed outside mostly to enjoy the views and just wore waterproof layers).
Fløyen & Ulriken Mountains — Cable Cars
Bergen is surrounded by seven mountains, and at least two of them deserve your time. The Fløibanen funicular whisks you to the top of Mount Fløyen in minutes for panoramic views of the city and harbor. For something more dramatic, take the cable car to Mount Ulriken — the city’s highest at 643 meteors (2,110 ft.) — where the Skyscraperen Restaurant offers dinner with one of Norway’s most spectacular views. Make dinner reservations in advance here though, as it books up fast.
If you decide to plan to visit any of Bergen’s mountains, you really don’t need a guide, as we found these trails to be well marked and easy to navigate. We did a few hikes during our time here and used the AllTrails App to plan our routes. Wear waterproof hiking books, as it does get wet, and plan on a good workout, as the elevation can feel steep.
The Rosenkrantz Tower & Bergen Fortress
The Rosenkrantz Tower, standing close to Bryggen, is a beautifully preserved example of Norwegian fortified architecture. The tower was built for one of Norway’s great kings, Magnus the Lawmender, in the 13th century.
Just nearby, Bergen Fortress (Bergenhus) is one of Norway’s oldest and best-preserved medieval fortresses — and it stays open late in summer, making it perfect for an evening stroll under the long Nordic light.
We toured these ourselves in about an hour, so it doesn’t take a tremendous amount of time to explore them, though of course, you could stay longer for deeper exploration.
Øvre-Eide Farm — Horseback Riding
A short drive from the city, Øvre-Eide Farm offers horseback riding in the gorgeous Norwegian countryside surrounding Bergen. I planned this day trip because one of my lifetime goals is to ride a native horse breed in each country I go to – a lofty goal, I know, but so far I’ve had success. It ended up being one of the highlights of our trip!
This farm had Norwegian Fjords and the rare Nordlandshest/Lyngshest or Nordland Horse. I got to ride the Nordland Horse, which made me incredibly happy, as you could imagine. The horse was little – about the size and build of an Icelandic Horse, but not gaited with a Tölt. You could see the connection in lineage between the Nordland Horse and the Icelandic Horse (which I’ve also ridden in Iceland), which due to strict breeding standards, remains nearly identical to what the Vikings rode centuries ago.
This little guy had a great personality – very clever – and a blast to ride. Our guide took us to a state park with incredible views and we got to gallop up a road to a vantage point overlooking Bergen harbor. My husband tagged along on foot and explored the state park while me and the guide went riding (my husband is a saint for putting up with and supporting my hobbies). The views were spectacular and the park was very peaceful.
After the ride, we returned to the barn where our guide gave us some homemade juices (which were delicious – not at all like what we have in the States) and baked goods, as the owner of the property is a professional baker. We enjoyed the treats in a beautiful stone cellar, much like a wine cellar, and relaxed. Our guide was wonderful company and we had a very enjoyable and memorable afternoon.
A logistics note: If you take this ride, you don’t need to bring a helmet, boots or tack, they have it all there. I brought my paddock boots and half chaps rather than tall boots, but borrowed one of their helmets.
Bergen Aquarium (Akvariet i Bergen)
Something to know about me: I love aquariums. If there’s a good aquarium in a city I’m visiting, I always try to make time to see it. Whether you’re traveling with family or flying solo, the Bergen Aquarium is a great way to spend a rainy afternoon.The aquarium sits right on the waterfront and is one of the best in Scandinavia — showcasing the rich marine life of Norway’s coastal waters alongside exotic species from around the world. The exhibits are beautifully designed and genuinely engaging for adults and kids alike. The undeniable stars of the show, though, are the penguins. Watching them waddle, swim, and interact with each other is pure joy — you can learn their names and stories too!
Fantoft Stave Church
A reconstructed medieval building, the Fantoft Stave Church is a striking example of Norway’s unique ecclesiastical architecture — dark timber, stunning gables, and an atmosphere that feels ancient even in its rebuilt form. My husband and I ran out of time to see the stave church, which was a regret of mine on the trip. I did get to see stave churches elsewhere in Norway during the trip, but Fantoft is famous and I recommend adding it to your itinerary if you have time.
The Hanseatice Museum
No visit to Bergen would be complete without a stop at the Hanseatic Museum and Schøtstuene, one of the city’s most celebrated cultural landmarks. Nestled within the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bryggen, the museum invites visitors to explore the world of the German Hanseatic merchants — including their historic assembly rooms and kitchen/cook houses, known as Schøtstuene. This museum was closed for renovations during my trip, so I wasn’t able to step inside myself, but due to its cultural relevance, it’s absolutely worth adding to your itinerary.
Kayaking
Another great way to see Bergen is by kayak! My husband and I took a small-group tour, which we booked via Viator, and it was really lovely. The tour takes you kayaking around the Øygarden islets just outside of Bergen. They pick you up downtown, provide wetsuits for warmth and guide you along the waterways with stunning views. We ended up with a great group of other kayakers and learned about the salmon industry and wildlife in the area.
After the kayak tour, you’re fed a nice lunch and taken back to downtown Bergen. If you book this trip, plan on at least half a day and dress warmly. I strongly recommend it if you like to kayak!
Blue Ice Hike — Folgefonna Glacier
If you are willing to drive a couple hours and take a ferry across a fjord, you can experience one of the most extraordinary places in western Norway – Folgefonna Glacier. The drive is absolutely gorgeous – you will see little waterfalls and mountains along the way, and the ferry across the fjord is stunning. We found the drive to be well worth the adventure.
We took a guided hike across the blue ice of Folgefonna Glacier and it was one of the highlights of our trip. It had actually snowed a lot the night before and we weren’t sure if the hike would be canceled due to the conditions, but the tour company made it work. While we did the Folgefonna Blue Ice Hike, the company also offers many other types of tours – like a kayak tour of the glacier and more. We booked the tour with the Folgefonna Glacier Team and had an excellent experience – I strongly recommend them to anyone that likes to hike and wants to try something new!
A word of caution: The drive up to Folgefonna National Park is not for timid drivers – the road is very narrow and winds up and up and up until you get to the ski resort where the hikes depart from. The hillside is filled with sheep and it’s beautiful, but go slow if you’re driving.
Another word of caution: This is not a hike you should do on your own – there are crevasses hidden under the snow and other major safety hazards that make hiring a professional team like this essential – they kept us very safe and were very experienced. You are actually roped to each other so that if one of you falls into a crevasse, you’re not lost – this is not your average tourist attraction – you should be very fit and follow any and all directions you get from the guides. The climb down the glacier can be treacherous and is not for the faint of heart.
That being said, the tour guides divide up the groups by fitness level and ability – this ended up being super important, as not all groups were up for the same challenges or the same speeds. I felt well-matched in our group, but I will say – this pushed my limits of fitness, and I am someone who was running, biking and hiking a lot, so bear that in mind if you plan this day trip. I am also not terribly tall, and the sheer volume of snow the park had the night before was difficult to wade through – that is not normal weather for June though, so if you go that time of year, you may have easier weather conditions.
This was one of the highlights of our trip because it was a true challenge, my husband and I had never done anything like this before, and the views were absolutely MIND BLOWING. After you complete the initial hike up, the views are incredibly moving and will last with you forever. You eat lunch at the end of one of the rocky cliffs and can really appreciate the blue hue of the glacier and the sheer size of it all. It is awe-inspiring and 100% worth the challenge.
How much hiking and climbing you do varies based on fitness and weather conditions, but plan on a full day here. The hike down is also challenging because of the steepness, so plan on being sore the next day! I loved the hike down because you actually get to see a camp with sled dogs in training and sled dog puppies. It was so cool to get a glimpse of that, as I’d never really seen sled dogs in real life. It was a nice way to end the hike and round out the day.
A Logistics Note: If you don’t want to make the drive here from Bergen, you can stay in the town at the base of the national park, called Jondal. The woman I rode with at Øvre-Eide Farm actually owns a hotel there called Jondal Hotel, where you can stay!
Hiking
There is tons of fabulous hiking in Bergen. In fact, you can take the funicular directly from downtown right to hiking trails. We used the AllTrails app to find some great hikes in the area. It’s an invaluable resource for finding and navigating hiking trails around Fløyen, Ulriken, and beyond — with difficulty ratings, trail maps, and user reviews to help you choose the right route. It did rain quite a bit during our hike, so be sure to wear your raincoat and waterproof hiking boots.
We also took the rental car about an hour outside Bergen for another afternoon of hiking. We went to the ocean, which offered dramatic cliffs, rough seas and epic views. While it was rainy, it only added to the dramatic scenery.
Where to Stay
The Hanseatic Hotel
The Hanseatic Hotel is Bergen’s most atmospheric place to stay and it’s conveniently located in the historic timber buildings of Finnegaarden at Hanseatic Wharf, Bryggen. If you’d like to stay in one of the UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites, this is a great hotel option that feels truly authentic. The hotel is a short walk from all of Bergen’s major attractions, the harbor, the funicular, and the best restaurants in the city. It also has a great breakfast with plenty of options including fresh fruit and fresh-baked breads.
We stayed here during our trip to Bergen and it suited our needs perfectly. It is a very old building though, so if you’re sensitive to dust or faint smells that come with old buildings, this is not the place for you.
Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz Bergen
Perfectly positioned for exploring everything Bergen has to offer, Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz sits very close to the UNESCO-listed Bryggen Wharf. The 4-star hotel features well-appointed rooms and modern comforts. It’s a great option if you still want to be near the main attractions but in a newer building.
Bergen Harbour Hotel
Bergen Harbour Hotel is also very close to the Bryggen Wharf for maximum convenience. It’s reasonably priced and modern in design. If you want something walking-distance to the historic sights, but in a more modern building, this could work well for you.
What to Eat
Marg & Bein
Marg & Bein — “marrow and bone” — takes Norwegian ingredients seriously. This was my favorite restaurant we ate at during our time in Bergen. The menu was creative, the ingredients were fresh and the meals were delicious. It also had a great drinks list to pair with the meals.
Trekroneren
Don’t overlook Trekroneren, a beloved Bergen hot dog stand, for a quick and memorable bite. I had a reindeer sausage with lingonberry sauce and it was delicious. It’s a genuinely Norwegian flavor combination that you won’t find at home. Trekroneren has been a local institution for decades and is worth a stop just for the experience. One note: be prepared to share the sidewalk with some very friendly pigeons.
Pingvinen
Pingvinen was my second favorite restaurant in Bergen that we tried. We ate here on our first evening in Bergen and the service was great, the atmosphere was cozy and the food was excellent. I found the portions here to be quite large and the food was very fresh. I had fish over roasted vegetables with caviar. Make reservations in advance here, as it’s a popular place, for locals as well, and it fills up fast.
Fjåk
One afternoon, my husband and I stopped into an incredible chocolate shop and cafe called Fjåk. We had hot chocolates to warm ourselves after a hike and it was perfect! The chocolate quality was outstanding and they had a variety of creative flavors to choose from.
Frescohallen
Located at Bryggen, Frescohallen is one of Bergen’s most reliably welcoming restaurants. Open throughout the day and evening with a flexible approach to timing, it’s an ideal first-night dinner — particularly useful if you’ve just arrived from a long flight and need something good without fuss. The beautiful setting is hard to beat.
Skyscraperen Restaurant
Perched at the top of Mount Ulriken, Skyscraperen offers dinner with a view that stretches across the city, the harbor, and the fjords beyond. Take the cable car up as the sun begins its long Norwegian descent and arrive for a dinner that is as much about the setting as the food. A genuinely memorable evening.
Bryggeloftet
One of Bergen’s most storied restaurants, Bryggeloftet sits on the second floor of a Bryggen building with harbor views. It offers traditional Norwegian cuisine — fish dishes, game, and excellent seafood — in surroundings that have been welcoming guests for generations. You need to make reservations to eat here, as it books up fast. In fact, we didn’t get to eat here since it was already fully booked each day we tried to make a reservation.
Spisekroken
This little restaurant is highly reviewed and well-regarded. While I didn’t get to try Spisekroken, it was on my list of options during our stay. The menu looks great and it’s Scandinavian food if you’re looking to stay on theme.
If you’re considering expanding your trip to Norway, check out my Norway Series. 🇳🇴
